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HOW TO TREAT OR PAINT WOOD
One of the materials that suffers the most from the elements is wood , especially wood that is outdoors; railings, eaves, windows or shutters are especially damaged and we have to dedicate a little time to maintain and protect them .
Wood is one of the most beautiful and noble materials that exist, it has been used for many centuries, it has excellent insulating properties but to always keep it in perfect condition it must be maintained , this is inevitable , we must know that from time to time we will have to treat it, not doing so will cause the wood to end up rotting and there will be no other solution than to remove or change it.
There are two types of wood treatment:
1.- CLOSED PORE TREATMENT.
They are varnishes (colorless) or enamels (with color) that, once applied to the wood, leave it sealed and protected, can maintain the appearance of wood (in the case of varnishes) or can completely cover the natural grain of the wood (in the case of an enamel, for example).
These are treatments that guarantee that the wood will be perfectly protected, although they have a problem: Wood moves with increases in temperature and humidity; with cold or low humidity it contracts and with heat or high humidity it expands and swells . Applying a varnish or rigid paint on wood, especially on the outside, causes the varnish or paint to expand and contract with changes in temperature and humidity, ending up cracking or peeling. How should we treat wood in these cases?
- First we must remove all possible traces of paint, either by sanding or by using a paint stripper.
- Once the wood has been left as clean as possible of any remains of old paint, we will apply a coat of special wood primer , also known as sealer .
- After waiting about 8-12 hours, we will apply two coats of synthetic enamel in the color we like best, leaving about 8-12 hours between each coat of paint.
2.- OPEN PORE TREATMENT.
This treatment consists of applying an open-pore varnish, also called lasur ( from the French word lasure). These varnishes do not seal the wood but penetrate and protect it, allowing it to expand or contract freely and not cause cracks or splits.
Stains are pigmented (with color) to prevent degradation by UV rays, they have treatment against insects and molds that protect the wood and repel moisture. They keep the wood protected and also give it a lustrous and pleasant appearance, maintaining its original grain.
The advantage of applying a stain , in addition to its fantastic protective properties, is that maintenance is very simple . As it does not cause cracks or splits, it is not necessary to sand or use strippers. Instead, very fine sandpaper is enough and one or two more coats of product are applied without having to do anything else. They are water-based products , so both application and cleaning are very easy.
SILICATE VADES
The silicate glazing technique For glazing applications, the paint must be mixed to the desired degree of transparency, preferably with a thinner of the same commercial brand chosen.
It can be diluted in any proportion; in practice mixing ratios between approx. 1:5 and 1:20 have proven to be suitable.
The technique allows for obtaining very transparent glazes or glazes in pure tones.
The prepared mixture should be stirred periodically before and during application.
Water or other substances should not be added.
The prepared glaze is applied in a crisscross pattern with a glaze brush.
The prepared mixture can be applied with a roller.
When applying the glaze, it is important to work quickly and avoid the formation of joints.
Unit designation and application procedure Silicate paint with a smooth finish on exterior vertical surfaces, in a colour to be defined by the ITO. Prior pH neutralisation on new plaster or partial repairs, with a diluted base coat, applied with a brush, and a finishing coat of undiluted silicate paint.
HOW TO REPAIR A SMOOTH WALL
Before painting a wall, we must repair all the damage, covering with plaster any holes from possible drills, etc., as well as any scratches or bumps on the wall.
NECESSARY MATERIALS:
-Renovation Plaster
(You can find this material in our online store at: Facades / Wall Preparation.)
-Sponge sandpaper or medium grit sandpaper
(You can find it in our online store under: Accessories/ Abrasives or Sandpaper)
STEPS TO FOLLOW:
PREPARE THE PUTTY:
We must mix the Plaste with water to form a putty that has a texture that can be handled with the spatula. Neither too watery so that it does not fall off, nor too thick so that it can be worked.
APPLY THE PLASTER:
We must apply the paste with a wide spatula. We cannot expect to get it right the first time if the hole is very deep, as the putty will probably shrink, requiring a second coat of putty.
We will know that the plaster is dry, because we will be able to see that the color of the plaster has changed and once dry it is white.
Once the putty is dry, we will proceed to sand the surface with the sponge sandpaper to make it smooth. If a scratch appears, we will go over it again with the putty, but we will always go over it and sand it dry.
We will check by passing our hand over it, that there are no lumps, to know if it is well sanded and ready to paint.
HOW TO REPAIR A HOLE IN A STUCCOATED OR GOTELÉ WALL
If we want to cover a hole in a stuccoed wall, we must be very careful with the plaster, so that it is not noticeable where we have applied it.
NECESSARY MATERIALS:
-Renovation Plaster
(You can find this material in our online store at: Facades / Wall Preparation.)
-Sponge sandpaper or medium grit sandpaper
(You can find it in our online store in: Accessories/ Abrasives or Sandpaper)
STEPS TO FOLLOW:
PREPARE THE PUTTY:
We must mix the Plaste with water to form a putty that has a texture that can be handled with the spatula. Neither too watery so that it does not fall off, nor too thick so that it can be worked.
APPLY THE PLASTER:
WE WILL NEVER USE A SPATULA, because otherwise all the plaster will get stuck between the stucco or the gotelé.
If the plug is still in the hole, we will try to remove it and if not, we will cut off everything that protrudes from the wall.
We will know that the plaster is dry, because we will be able to see that the color of the plaster has changed and once dry it is white.
We will proceed to put the plaster inside the hole WITH THE FINGER, trying to make it stick out a little on the wall, to imitate the drop of plaster.
If we want to round off the peak of the plaster, we will sand it carefully to imitate the drop on the wall.
We will check that the plaster is completely dry, and then we can paint.
HOW TO REPAIR A CORNER BEFORE PAINTING
If we do not have corner protectors in the corners, over time, due to knocks or friction, our corners will become damaged.
Before painting, we must fix them so that they are in perfect condition again.
NECESSARY MATERIALS:
-Renovation Plaster
(You can find this material in our online store at: Facades / Wall Preparation.)
-Sponge sandpaper or medium grit sandpaper
(You can find it in our online store under: Accessories/ Abrasives or Sandpaper)
STEPS TO FOLLOW:
PREPARE THE PUTTY:
We must mix the Plaste with water to form a putty that has a texture that can be handled with the spatula. Neither too watery so that it does not fall off, nor too thick so that it can be worked.
APPLY THE PLASTER:
We must apply the paste with a wide spatula. We cannot expect to get it right the first time if the hole is very deep, as the putty will probably shrink, requiring a second coat of putty.
We will know that the plaster is dry, because we will be able to see that the color of the plaster has changed and once dry it is white.
Once the putty is dry, we will proceed to sand the surface with the sponge sandpaper to make it smooth. If a scratch appears, we will go over it again with the putty, but we will always go over it and sand it dry.
We will check by passing our hand over it, that there are no lumps, to know if it is well sanded and ready to paint.
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